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Astrophotography
Completed light painted Aurora at Bell's Beach, Victoria
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<blockquote data-quote="Chavezshutter" data-source="post: 711" data-attributes="member: 3"><p>There are a few things going on but I will try to explain it:</p><p></p><p>There are a few concepts to keep in mind when shooting stars even with a single photo, the biggest one is star trailing, this is when instead of a sharp star, you begin to get coma like stars and with longer shutters they turn into star trails, this effect occurs because the stars move across the sky as earth spins and the "rule" used to avoid this is called the 500 rule which is simply 500 divided by focal length - In my case 500/20(mm) = 25 seconds. This is most amount of shutter time I want to use before star trailing starts to look noticeable. I used 15 seconds in my shots which is why I was somewhat confused about having some coma in my shots, but moving on, now that you have the idea of the 500 rule is we can talk about the editing.</p><p></p><p>The first part is the stacking of the stars using Sequator, I wont go into too much detail into what it involved as I plan to do a write up about this free software for the forum. Suffice to say I used 4 consecutively taken star shots and stacked them to create the background/stars. The software aligns the stars in the output image (and does some other stuff I wont elaborate here), taking care of the moving star issue between each frame, if you already have trailing in your shot from not following the 500 rule, then you need to reshoot or try to edit a star trail shot instead of sharp stars . The end result of the first version of this Sequator process was posted earlier in my other aurora <a href="https://explorness.com/threads/bells-beach-astro-with-a-little-aurora.93/#post-476" target="_blank">post</a>.</p><p></p><p>The next part is trickier to understand, perhaps if I show you the photos I used to create the final image you might get a better idea:</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH]222[/ATTACH][ATTACH]223[/ATTACH][ATTACH]224[/ATTACH][ATTACH]225[/ATTACH]</p><p>I took my Sequator stacked stars and the 4 photos above into Photoshop and used sections of each photo to create the final image (this is called a composite). My foreground was taken from the second photo and for the lighpainted rocks I "painted" in light from each photo into my final image. The amount of light taken from each photo can be adjusted before, during and after the painting. Once I was happy with the result a little cleanup here and there and a final edit in Lightroom. Hope that clears it up a little. I remember when I started to play with Photoshop and it was all some type of magic😆. I use mostly Lightroom for editing but I pull out the old Photoshop skills for a composite like this Aurora photo. Putting even just 2 photos together is very useful and powerfull, worth learning in my opinion.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Chavezshutter, post: 711, member: 3"] There are a few things going on but I will try to explain it: There are a few concepts to keep in mind when shooting stars even with a single photo, the biggest one is star trailing, this is when instead of a sharp star, you begin to get coma like stars and with longer shutters they turn into star trails, this effect occurs because the stars move across the sky as earth spins and the "rule" used to avoid this is called the 500 rule which is simply 500 divided by focal length - In my case 500/20(mm) = 25 seconds. This is most amount of shutter time I want to use before star trailing starts to look noticeable. I used 15 seconds in my shots which is why I was somewhat confused about having some coma in my shots, but moving on, now that you have the idea of the 500 rule is we can talk about the editing. The first part is the stacking of the stars using Sequator, I wont go into too much detail into what it involved as I plan to do a write up about this free software for the forum. Suffice to say I used 4 consecutively taken star shots and stacked them to create the background/stars. The software aligns the stars in the output image (and does some other stuff I wont elaborate here), taking care of the moving star issue between each frame, if you already have trailing in your shot from not following the 500 rule, then you need to reshoot or try to edit a star trail shot instead of sharp stars . The end result of the first version of this Sequator process was posted earlier in my other aurora [URL='https://explorness.com/threads/bells-beach-astro-with-a-little-aurora.93/#post-476']post[/URL]. The next part is trickier to understand, perhaps if I show you the photos I used to create the final image you might get a better idea: [ATTACH alt="DSC00448.jpg"]222[/ATTACH][ATTACH alt="DSC00449.jpg"]223[/ATTACH][ATTACH alt="DSC00454.jpg"]224[/ATTACH][ATTACH alt="DSC00455.jpg"]225[/ATTACH] I took my Sequator stacked stars and the 4 photos above into Photoshop and used sections of each photo to create the final image (this is called a composite). My foreground was taken from the second photo and for the lighpainted rocks I "painted" in light from each photo into my final image. The amount of light taken from each photo can be adjusted before, during and after the painting. Once I was happy with the result a little cleanup here and there and a final edit in Lightroom. Hope that clears it up a little. I remember when I started to play with Photoshop and it was all some type of magic😆. I use mostly Lightroom for editing but I pull out the old Photoshop skills for a composite like this Aurora photo. Putting even just 2 photos together is very useful and powerfull, worth learning in my opinion. [/QUOTE]
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Completed light painted Aurora at Bell's Beach, Victoria
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